In Egypt, what would be considered a road hazard in any other part of the world is probably the road. Outside of Cairo there are few defined spaces for traffic and pedestrians. Even where there are sidewalks, people, cars, and animals share the same access.

Most visitors suspect that by leaving the sanctuary of their hotels they risk being brought home in a box. But as Egyptian street life is gloriously vibrant, it seems like a shame to miss out when all it takes is a little local knowledge.

Walk like an Egyptian: This is easier than you think. Wear shoes with traction and keep looking over your shoulder to check what’s going on behind you, even when walking on what appears to be a ‘safe’ side of the road. There isn’t one. Potholes without safety barriers appear regularly at night, so looking down from time to time helps prevent unwanted falls.

Jay walking: it is completely legal, even recommended. however, if you can avoid crossing the streets, do so, you will live longer. If he must cross, he zigzags as fast as he can while keeping a constant eye on anything that is moving or might move. Never assume someone will stop for you. They will not. For really crowded areas, it’s best to find a place where the locals are already crossing and follow them as nonchalantly as possible. Suspected harassers are as unwelcome in Egypt as elsewhere.

Remember that there is another way to deal with this. One can hop on a local minibus or take a taxi.

Minibus: A multitude of minibuses honking and stopping in front of pedestrians will take you anywhere along fixed routes within towns and cities extremely cheaply. By cheap, I mean never pay more than 1/2 LE (Egyptian Pounds). Ignore any attempt to bargain. The buses are small and often crowded, so getting on and off can reveal more meat than is considered appropriate and can lead to unwanted attention. Therefore, the modest attraction is recommended.

Taxis: Collective service taxis are one of the best features of Egyptian transportation. They operate on a wide variety of flexible routes and are faster than buses. Taxis can be used for individual rides or shared with others. Prices for all journeys, including intercity, must be agreed in advance. The downside is the often manic driving at high speed.

Alternatively, if you have a death wish, you can rent a car.

Car rental: Several international companies operate in Egypt. To rent a car you need a valid international driving license, be at least 25 years old and have nerves of steel.

Rules of the Road: There are none. But it’s still important to get the facts straight before trying to ride anything on wheels. For example, driving is done by constantly honking the horns and flashing the headlights, a method known locally as ‘The Egyptian Brake Pedal’.

Honk: Done to signal intentions and warnings when, for example, something is blocking the road, something looks like it might, something isn’t, and at traffic lights, regardless of color. Drivers tap when they pull away, approach, stop, move, get bored, or when they say hello.

Lights: Indicators are reserved for use only at night and only to alert following traffic of curves in the road ahead. In the dark, the headlights flash to oncoming traffic to alert them to your presence instead of being used continuously. Saves on battery apparently.

It’s wise to never assume that no human or animal has seen you – honk your horn and flash your lights, even if it’s just to be friendly!

Lane markings: They are purely decorative. Drivers drive on whichever side of the road appeals to them, which is usually on their side. The intentions of another road user should never be taken for granted, as it is highly likely that he has not made up his mind yet and even if he has, he will almost certainly change his mind again.

Passing: Cars, buses, wagons, and trucks will do their best to pass and overtake other vehicles, even in what appears to be an incredibly tight space, as this gives them the right of way. Anyone trying to enter from behind is ignored, as they are responsible for collisions.

Collisions: If you are in an accident, immediately go on the offensive and offer to pay for the repairs. The alternative is to be yelled at until you go deaf and still end up paying. If the local police are around, the standard procedure is to throw everyone in jail regardless of fault, and trust me, they’ll still end up paying.

Speeding: Strangely, speed limits are strictly enforced in Egypt. Although you wouldn’t think so from the way the Egyptians drive. Even minor infractions can lead to the confiscation of the driving license. Getting it returned is an expensive, lengthy, and laborious business with no guarantee of success, even if one hands over wads of cash, ie. dollars or euros.

Security: One security feature that you can always count on while navigating the roads and byways of Egypt is the road block. To some it seems like an unnecessary nuisance and the endless waiting to be judged endless friend or foe. Be patient and remember that the longer you wait, the longer you will live.

Cultural tip to better appreciate the above: The Islamic religion is a critical component in Egyptian life. Therefore, this is a fatalistic culture and one’s fate is believed to be firmly in God’s hands. Since nothing can be done about it, there tends to be an acceptance of the status quo. In other words, the response to everything is subject to ‘Insha’allah’ (God willing) and a copy of the Qur’an is a standard extra on all forms of transport. On the plus side, this fatalism means that it’s rare to come across an Egyptian who isn’t smiling.

GENERAL INFORMATION

How to get to Egypt: Alitalia, KLM and Air France fly to Egypt for approximately EUR 300 round trip or less. However, holiday packages are often cheaper than booking flights and accommodation independently. Budget Travel, for example, will fly you to Luxor, take you on a luxury bus to a 5-star hotel, and provide you with breakfast for around EUR540 per week. If you disappear like I did, resorts aren’t my thing, they’ll even come looking for you.

Getting around Egypt: Egyptian public transport is incredibly efficient and cheap.

Bus: Intercity buses are the cheapest way to travel around the country. A ticket from Hurghada to Cairo costs as little as LE 60 per person each way. In the Red Sea area you will find two main operators: the Upper Egypt Bus Company serves the cities of the Red Sea Governorate, from Hurghada to Safaga, El Quseir and Marsa Alam, and also links these cities with the Nile Valley. and Cairo. The Canal Zone and Sinai are served by East Delta Bus Company. Both companies offer air-conditioned buses and on the longer routes they also have toilets on board. Schedules change frequently, so it is best to check in person at the bus terminals.

Rail: Slightly more expensive is the extensive rail network controlled by the Egyptian State Railways. The network has a high standard of service and covers the entire country, connecting all major cities. Tickets can be purchased at the station but, as with all affairs in Egypt, some patience is required to complete the purchase. Take your student card with you, if you have one, as I’ve been told it can give up to 33% off fees. I personally doubt it, but I’ve never had the patience to try. Visit http://www.egyptrail.gov.eg for more information.

If you want to take advantage of the night train services, you need to book one week in advance through a travel agent or through Abela Egypt. For more information, visit http://www.sleepingtrains.com.

Planes: For those short on money or time, Egypt Air flies daily between Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor, Aswan, Abu Simbel and Hurghada. Being a nervous flyer, I always appreciated the traditional community prayers led by the pilot while on board, ie. ‘bismillahir rahmanir rahim’ (in the name of Allah, the most merciful, the kindest) to help take off and landing successfully ‘al-Hámdu lil-láah’ (by the mercy of God) we made it. All of which reminds us how truly miraculous air travel is. For information on schedules and fares, visit http://www.egyptair.com.eg/english/.

Health and Safety: The adrenaline rush is addictive, so proceed with due caution. Still, no vaccinations are required for tourists arriving from Europe. Pharmacists in major cities are well informed and generally trilingual.